Inverted triangle

What works and what to avoid

Inverted triangle — an extreme difference between chest and hips: a jacket that fits the shoulders hangs two or more sizes too big at the waist. The main rule: buy for the shoulder, take in the waist — the shoulder seam cannot be altered, the waist can be altered for very little. A soft or unconstructed shoulder, raglan sleeves for outerwear; no shoulder pads, epaulettes or roped shoulders. This is the only male type that volume on the bottom genuinely helps: straight and wide straight trousers, pleats — but straight, not flared: a flare moves the volume to the hip, while it is needed along the whole length. A V-neck and an open collar lengthen the neck and break up the width of the chest.

Tips

• A raglan sleeve and a soft, unpadded shoulder soften the shoulder line: the upper body looks less massive and less geometrically broad.
• Straight, slightly relaxed trousers balance the top: the lower half needs mass, not cling. Trousers cut tight to the ankle make the shoulders look even wider by contrast.
• Texture and volume below pull some attention away from the shoulders: heavy trousers, cargo trousers and substantial shoes give the lower half the weight the silhouette lacks.