Rectangle

What works and what to avoid

Rectangle — the chest is about equal to the hips, the waist does not show when there is no belly. The most effective alteration is to create the drop that is not there: have a tailor take the jacket in at the waist, keeping the shoulder. A structured shoulder with light padding; a double-breasted jacket is the rectangle's best friend — the crossing lines create a taper where the figure does not. Layers (shirt + knit + an open third layer) create depth and a vertical instead of a flat plane. Do not create a waist with a belt: on men a tight belt reads not as a silhouette but as a cinched belt.

Tips

• A double-breasted jacket adds visual width to the torso: wide lapels and two rows of buttons give the upper body more presence. Wear it buttoned — the construction only works as a whole.
• A defined, slightly extended jacket shoulder sets the top line: the torso looks sharper and broader, with no need to emphasise the waist.
• A quiet lower half doesn't pull focus: straight trousers or a slight taper keep the accent up top. Skip skinny cuts — a leg that narrow sharpens the contrast with the torso.